一. Cotton yarn count
The higher of the yarn count, the finer the yarn, the weave cloth more thinner, and more softer and comfortable. However, the cloth with high count requires high quality of raw materials (cotton), and also has high requirements for yarn mills and textile weaving mills, so the cost of cloth is relatively high.
二. Classification of cotton yarn
1. According the thickness
(1) Coarse Count Yarn: cotton yarn of 17 tex and below is coarse count yarn. It is mainly used for weaving thick or pile and loop cotton fabrics, such as coarse cloth, flannelette, etc.
(2) Medium count yarn: 18-27 count cotton yarn belongs to medium count yarn, which is used to weave plain cloth, twill cloth, satin and other general fabrics.
(3) Fine count yarn: 28 or more cotton yarns, used for weaving fine fabrics, poplin, high-grade knitwear and woven fabrics.
2. According to cotton blending grade
(1) Carded yarn: ring spun yarn without combing process, which is used for general knitted fabrics and woven fabrics
(2) Combed yarn: using high-quality cotton fiber as raw material, a combing process is added when spinning compared with ordinary combed yarn. The spun yarn is of high quality and is used for weaving high-grade fabrics, such as high-grade poplin, fine cloth, etc.
(3) Waste spinning: refers to the yarn spun with all the waste cotton treated in the spinning process as raw materials, which is used to weave low-grade cotton blankets, flannelette, wrapping cloth, etc.
3. According to twist direction
(1) Z-twist yarn: it is most widely used in various fabrics.
(2) S twist yarn: the weft yarn used for weaving flannelette.
4. According to the use of the yarn
(1) Warp yarn: it's the yarn in the direction parallel to the cloth edge in woven fabric. It has great strength and generally has large twist.
(2) Weft yarn: it's the yarn in the direction perpendicular to the selvage in woven fabric. The strength is lower than warp yarn, and the twist is generally lower than that of warp yarn. Also have the softness.
5. According to yarn dyeing and processing
(1) Natural color yarn (primary color yarn): maintains the natural color of fiber for weaving primary color grey cloth.
(2) Dyed yarn: the colored yarn made of primary color yarn after cooking and dyeing is used for color weaving.
(3) Color spinning (including mixed color yarn): is a yarn made by dyeing the fiber and spinning it. It can be woven into fabrics with irregular stars and patterns.
(4) Bleached yarn: It is made of primary color yarn after scouring and bleaching. It is used to weave bleached cloth. It can also be interwoven with dyed yarn into various yarn dyed products.
(5) Mercerized cloth: mercerized cotton yarn, including mercerized bleaching and mercerized dyeing yarn, is used for weaving high-grade fabrics.
(6) Singeing yarn: the fuzz on the yarn surface is burned by the singeing machine to make yarn with smooth surface for high-grade products.
三： Makrolon value
It is a comprehensive index reflecting the fineness and maturity of cotton fiber. It is one of the important internal quality indexes of cotton fiber, which is closely related to the use value of cotton fiber.
Makrolon value is divided into three levels: A, B and C. Level B is the standard level. The value range of level a is 3.7-4.2, and the quality is the best. The value range of level B is 3.5-3.6 and 4.3-4.9. The value range of level C is 3.4 and below and above 5.0, and the quality is the worst.
The specific measurement method is to use an airflow meter to measure the air permeability of cotton fiber with constant weight after being pressed into solid volume, and expressed by the scale value. The larger the value, the thicker the month and the higher the maturity of cotton fiber.